Preparation is paramount to a good finish with any paint product, but with gloss you’ll get noticeably better results if you spend a little extra time preparing the surface. The simple step of rubbing down the undercoat with wet and dry paper, for example, helps the gloss to flow on better, giving a shinier finish to the job.
Judy Smith, Crown Paints’ Colour Consultant, comments: “Keep things clean. Dust and other day-to-day debris can ruin even the best application. Ensure you’re prepared with all the right tools before you start. After all that, the actual gloss painting is straightforward.”
A gloss or satin paint, on interior wood or metal, delivers a tough, durable finish.
Also remember that you don’t have to gloss in white! The market offers a number of colourful gloss shades to tackle anything from skirting boards to window frames. Great for vertical surfaces, non-drip gloss is perfect for doors or architrave, whilst quick drying gloss creates a good-looking finish in next to no time – helping homeowners refresh and touch-up previously painted wood.
“When selecting your gloss, experiment with colour,” continues Judy. “Remember the right shade can enhance any interior. My favourite is Crown’s Toasted Almond Non Drip Matt – perfect for complementing muted beiges or dusky purple on walls.”
- Lay new plastic disposable dust sheets in the area you plan to work in. If you use material dust sheets make sure they are completely dust free.
- It’s much easier to paint a surface that’s clear of any interruptions, so remove any fixtures or fittings.
- Before abrading a surface, be sure to remove all dirt present as sanding on dirt will force into the grain.
- Lightly sand down the surface to help with adhesion and wipe down once complete. Remember to always sand in the direction of the grain. If the surface you plan to paint has several layers of old paint on it, you may have to start with a coarser grade of sand paper to get rid of any imperfections. Always finish off with a finer grade paper or you’ll end up with scratches that will show through the undercoat and top coat. Wear a dust mask for this part of the job! Once you’ve finished rubbing down, use a vacuum cleaner to get rid of the dust.
- If you’re painting a window or a door with glass panels, cover the edges of the glass with masking tape. Use a sharp Stanley-type knife to cut the tape neatly into the corners. This will stop any paint getting on the glass and allows you to apply paint more freely.
- Brush sizes 12mm, 25mm and 50mm will cover most undercoating and glossing jobs. The better the brush, the better the finish, so spend that little extra as there’s nothing worse than returning to a gorgeously finished piece of work to discover a fine bristle dried to the surface.
- Unless applying a maintenance coat, be sure to apply a layer of undercoat to achieve a smooth finish. Once the undercoat is dry, apply another coat on top. Two layers of undercoat should cover any darker paint finishes underneath and also helps to build a better base for the gloss coat.
- Stir the gloss paint. Load the brush and start painting. Allow the gloss to flow out over the surface as you paint – don’t be tempted to over brush the paint or you’ll leave marks. Keep an eye out for runs in the paint – corners are particularly prone to them – and brush them out immediately.
- Apply in the direction of the surface and be liberal to satisfy the porosity, especially with vulnerable ends. It's better to start painting in the middle and work outwards to avoid unsightly brush marks. With interior window frames, this means starting on the wood that sits the closest to the glass.
- Let the gloss harden for at least 24 hours. Avoid closing painted windows and doors completely for this time if possible, otherwise the paint may stick.
- If you’ve put masking tape on any glass, run a Stanley knife along the join between the tape and the wood. This prevents the tape from pulling up the paint as you peel it off. Replace the latches and handles, and the job is finished.