10 Jul 2018

A table with a feature tiled base and concrete top

Tiles. We use them in bathrooms and we use them on floors. But have you ever used them as part of a piece of furniture?

Here, Kerry of Kezzabeth – the home improvements blog – explains how she made her very own garden table.

Step 1

In order to use tiles as a base for a table, they need to have a suitable surface for tiling onto. This needs to be quite strong to hold the weight of the tiles too. I used HardieBacker.

I cut the HardieBacker into four exact rectangles using a jigsaw to roughly 45 x 30cm. I then cut four lengths of wood to the same height as the HardieBacker and height I wanted the table to be (45cm).

Step 2

Using long screws, I then affixed the pieces of HardieBacker onto the wood. If your wood is rectangular like mine, you’ll need to turn it around on each side to keep it all square. It’s also really important to remember one side of HardieBacker needs to overhang the wood to meet up with the second piece.

Step 3

Now for the fun part – tiling! I used a wet tile saw to cut them and they were literally the easiest tiles I’ve ever had to cut. It was like slicing through butter! My top tip for using a wet tile saw is to place masking tape over the area you want to cut – it stops your pencil line dissolving through the water and it leaves a smoother cut. I laid tiles on one side at a time, letting it dry before rolling the table over. Don’t forget – if you intend on using the table outside, you’ll need a tile adhesive that’s suitable for outdoor use.

Step 4

I cut the wood to the size I wanted and then screwed it directly onto the worktop, making sure everything was completely square with an angle finder. I then used some sealant around the edges between the wood and worktop and also between the corners of the wood. This will stop the cement mix seeping under the wood.

Step 5

Once that’s all dried, you can then pour cement. I poured the cement into the mould approximately halfway up before inserting some wire mesh. Make sure the mould is completely level before pouring the cement.

Step 6

After a 48-hour wait, it can now be lifted from its mould.

Step 7

Since the concrete top is pretty heavy, there’s no need to physically attach it to the base, it really isn’t going to be knocked off with much ease. Not having it attached also means we can store things inside it too (great for garden cushions during winter) and makes it a little more practical. And that’s it - you can now sit down with a book and glass of wine and enjoy your new table.

Further information....

You will need:

• Tiles
• Tile adhesive
• Wet tile saw
• HardieBacker/cement board
• Saw
• Lengths of wood
• Large, smooth board
• Trowel
• Screws
• Screwdriver
• Cement
• Mixing bucket and something to mix with
• Wire mesh
• Spirit level
• Sealant
• Drill
• Hammer

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